Blessed by Bats in Wurdimarlu

Camp setup after a special day wandering through the awe-inspiring gorges of Kalbarri National Park, an area also known as Wurdimarlu to the local Nanda people. The days were hot, perhaps over 45 degrees celsius we were told by the local ranger. People have died of dehydration in this area on much shorter hikes than we were undertaking. The ranger urged us not to take the 4 day trip we had been planning for months prior. His cautionary tales were sobering, however, given I have done a lot of hiking in summer here in Australia I figured we’d get by just fine, and so we did. We also had the ability to carry up to 10 litres of water per person per day. In saying this, I certainly wouldn’t recommend doing it to the unprepared. We had a plan in the instance we needed to cut the journey short additionally. Preparedness and experience can get you through some tough situations, although, there was nothing ‘tough’ about this trip as such. Sure, we were damn hot and drank a lot but we got to cool down in the waters of the Murchison River and explore some wondrous new country. What ensued were steep descents in and out of the gorge system, traversing rugged terrain, scrambling over loose rock, wading through river crossings and connecting with a place that I had previously only met briefly. ⁠

I recall countless black swans gliding along the Murchison River and the wind cutting through the gorges. The familiar feeling of the intense heat of the sun beating down on bare skin. Sitting by the river as the moon rises whilst being blessed by bats flying around above us. Bats in numbers, getting their fill of bugs for the night. Being woken from a deep sleep by a rogue feral pig raiding camp. The whispering sounds of the river running as we wander and take it all in. Being encircled and greeted by the fish people as you enter the deepest pool around to escape the heat of the day. Sleeping in the sand by that same deep pool where four gorges intersect. Seeing a father emu guiding his chicks away from the river, then a moment later seeing the one that fell behind running after them. Probably distracted by something on the riverside… A familiar story. Ticks finding a way to feed on your friend, no matter how protected they think they are. Feeling the warm embrace in the shallows of the river. Hiding under rock sheoaks for their shade. Feeling the radiant heat emanating from the stone walls of the gorges envelope you. River Red Gum branches that have no end and sandstone that teaches you about art.